A HIDDEN GEM
If you enjoy good food expertly prepared in a refined setting, run, do not walk, to Restaurant 213 in Fruitland. Md. First question off peoples lip when I mention this restaurant is almost always “where is Fruitland?” If you’re driving south on Rt 13 from Salisbury, you’ll pass right through it, and if you blink, you might not even notice the restaurant.
I discovered this tucked away little gem about 9 years ago, after noticing a little advertisement in one of the local papers noting the owner and head chef used to work at the White House. I was not disappointed. The only regret I had was taking a hiatus and not returning for a while. I have since made up for that faux pas, and Restaurant 213 has been elevated to the top of my list. The menu, while not extremely extensive, offers enough selections to appease any palate. Almost invariably though, I find myself ordering from the list of daily specials, which, by the way, I usually do at any of the restaurants I visit.
My latest visit to Restaurant 213 was to celebrate my girlfriend’s birthday. Due to scheduling uncertainties, I was not able to call to make reservations until about 3 hours before arriving, although reservations, while always safe, are not usually necessary. When we arrived , and after settling in, I was informed by our waiter that Chef Jim Hughes, recognizing me from previous visits and remembering my predilection for spicy, Thai influenced cuisine, had gone out to pick up some spices and herbs to help flavor my selections. I don’t know about you, but that has only happened in this restaurant.
So. . .on to the food! Our shared dinner began with an amuse bouche which featured a winter vegetable soup, which was perfectly seasoned, and had a creamy, almost ethereal sublime texture to it. That was accompanied by a basket of warm, fresh out of the oven bread which was replenished more than once. A southern inspired appetizer of biscuits and gravy appeared on the table still nestled in its cast iron pan and smoking from its stint in the oven.
This, however, was no ordinary biscuits and gravy. Jim Hughe’s version featured several plump oysters fried to a crisp, golden brown, and chopped andouille sausage in a flavorful gravy, to which he added Thai peppers for my benefit. It was, by far, the most interesting and flavorful biscuits and gravy I ever had. The bar, has indeed, been set very high.
Followed by an intermezzo of a mango sorbet, which was a totally warranted palate cleanser, we were ready for the main event. Upon unveiling our bowls, we were treated to the pleasant and scintillating aromas that wafted upwards. There were chunks of lobster and jumbo shrimp in a flavorful broth with a melange of vegetables and the presence of my required chili peppers. I could also detect a hint of curry, which, while not overpowering, reminded me of the inspirations of this dish. There was an accompanying dish of jasmine rice, which helped soak up the last remnants of the broth.
No important meal goes without a suitable ending, and this meal was not going to be an exception. For the final piece de resistance, we were presented with what closely resembled and tasted like a chocolate molten cake, kicked up a notch or two with streams of a chili infused chocolate sauce which pooled at the base of the individual cakes, surrounded by mounds of freshly whipped, vanilla scented whipped cream and topped off by a crown of homemade vanilla ice cream
Even though Restaurant 213 is a bit of a drive from the beach, its is definitely worth the road trip. Its ambience, coupled with the attentive service and the quality of the food never fail to impress. It is consistently on top of my “special occasion” restaurants. So go for that birthday or anniversary dinner, or go because you want to treat yourself and those you love to a memorable dining experience. You will not be disappointed! And don’t forget the complimentary scones that chef Jim Hughes provides at the end of every meal, to savor for breakfast the next morning or as a snack for the ride home
Happy Eating . . .